Marawi: Where Beauty Blooms In The Shadows Of War

Why Marawi? Why choose to explore a remote city with a tragic past?

With no iconic attractions and a scarred history, Marawi is definitely an unusual choice.

After all, the Philippines offers so much more, from Palawan’s gorgeous beaches to Bohol’s postcard-worthy rolling hills.

Yet, I chose this hauntingly beautiful and deeply unique city.

Maybe it’s because it’s unlike anything I’ve seen before.

Or perhaps I was drawn by a desire to learn more about our Muslim brothers and immerse myself in their culture.

The truth is, I’m not exactly sure why Marawi intrigued me so deeply. 

Yes, the city isn’t exactly known as the safest in the country.

Its reputation, unfortunately, is still clouded by the crisis that happened years ago. 

But somehow, I felt an urge to prove everyone wrong. 

Deep inside, I believed Marawi was safe and a place of beauty and resilience.

Intrigued and curious, I ventured into this captivating part of the Philippines.

So, what happened on this out-of-nowhere trip?

Did I find what I was looking for? 

Or did this journey prove, once again, that curiosity is one of my flaws and downfalls?

My Marawi adventure 

Call me strange, but I’d dreamed of visiting Marawi ever since the war ended. 

For reasons I couldn’t fully explain, I felt the Islamic city had something important to teach me.

And thankfully, I found a way to travel to this underrated city, amid my crazily hectic schedule.

So, on one breezy weekend, my niece and I traveled to Mindanao to satisfy my curiosity and thirst for new experiences. 

6:38 AM at Laguindingan Airport

From our humble abode, we traveled to MCIA and flew to Laguindingan Airport. 

While it’s about a hundred kilometers from our target destination, it’s the only airport near Marawi City.

Afterward, we caught up with our guide and driver for the day, Pul Jeh, and started our 3-hour journey to the city.

On our way to the Summer Capital of the South, we passed through scenic small towns that offered a glimpse of local life.

And like any curious traveler, I asked a lot of questions about the Marawi siege.

I’ve heard many stories about the Battle Of Marawi in 2017 from mainstream media and social media.

But these stories feel different when you hear them from a local or someone who lives near the actual site.

In less than an hour, I learned more than I ever could have from a weekend binge-watching Netflix or scrolling through social media.

We stopped briefly at a carinderia for breakfast, fueling up for a full day of exploring Iligan and Marawi. 

Over a quick meal, I reflected on how much I still didn’t know about the region. 

But as the journey continued, I realized that every mile brought me closer to answers I hadn’t yet formed questions for.

Entering Lanao del Sur

When I woke up, I noticed that we were stuck in traffic.

What’s going on here?

I thought traffic was only a problem in bustling modern cities like my hometown, Cebu.

It turned out there was an ongoing checkpoint being conducted by the Philippine National Police.

We didn’t have any issues with the checkpoint since we didn’t look like we were up to anything shady.

Moments later, we made a quick stop and took pictures of the welcome sign in Lanao del Sur.

At the welcome sign, there were no-nonsense armed Philippine soldiers who looked pretty intimidating.

After snapping a few shots, the soldiers, in tough, no-nonsense voices, asked us about our purpose in Lanao del Sur.

For some, the sight of rifles and serious faces feels overwhelming.

Let’s face it, a checkpoint and armed soldiers don’t exactly paint a picture of peace. 

I admit. 

I was a bit worried when I saw those people.

But there are layers to everything.

Checkpoints and armed guards aren’t just symbols of caution.

They’re also protectors of peace and a visible reminder of everything this place has endured and survived.

So, I took a deep breath and let it go. 

As always, I told myself “que sera sera,” and let the Universe do his magic.

With that thought, we continued our journey, letting the road ahead reveal stories of the Marawi battle.

As we drove deeper into Lanao del Sur, the road began to climb steeply. 

Along the way, I caught fleeting glimpses of local life, including massive tarpaulins congratulating board passers and tiny food shacks.

We drove on, soaking in the scenery, until we hit another stretch of traffic.

Touchdown Marawi 

At first, I thought we were still miles away from Marawi. 

I thought we were still in another city on the way to our destination.

Little did I know, we had already arrived.

Naively, I thought Lanao del Sur was made up of several cities. 

Pul Jeh explained that Marawi is the only city in the province, and we were already close to the infamous Ground Zero.

Normally, traffic drives me mad. 

Who doesn’t hate being stuck in lines of cars? 

But this time, it brought a smile to my face. 

This wasn’t just traffic, but it was also a sign of progress.

Furthermore, it was a sign of life returning to Marawi.

As my eyes wandered around, I noticed high-end cars sharing the road, people wearing elaborate clothes, and businesses buzzing with activity. 

A hotel nearby was hosting a big wedding party with sounds of celebration spilling into the street.

It was a far cry from the image of Marawi that most of us hold in our minds. 

The lively scene before me was so different from the devastation I had read about.

It’s a testament to the city’s resilience and the spirit of its people.

Exploring Ground Zero and the Marawi aftermath

Pul Jeh was right.

Ground Zero was just down the road when we were stuck in traffic.

And it felt like we were transported into a different dimension when we entered Ground Zero.

The busy streetscape suddenly turned into a haunting ghost town with remnants of a bloody war.

Several buildings were abandoned and scarred. 

Their walls were pierced with bullet holes.

Crumbling facades, shattered windows, and abandoned homes were all over the place as if time had frozen during the Marawi battle.

The silence was heavy, broken only by the soft rustle of the wind. 

I felt sadness for the lives lost, admiration for those who stayed, and deep respect for the city’s resilience.

Soon, we stopped by a silent corner in Ground Zero, Marawi.

A few buildings were already occupied, and one was renovated.

But the rest?

They were left in ruins, holding stories that may never be told and scars that may never fully heal.

The walls of the buildings here were strong and were almost 7 inches thick.

Yet, they were no match against the heavy artillery.

Walking through the ruins, I felt a mix of awe and sadness. 

The walls seemed to hold stories of survival and loss, while nature slowly took over what was left behind.

It was a clear reminder of our mortality and eventuality.

No matter how advanced we become, nature is always stronger. 

Vines climbed the walls, grass grew through cracks, and trees began to flourish.

At that moment, I realized that our progress is temporary, but nature lasts forever.

These ruins were poetic in their silence. 

They reminded me that our greatest achievements, no matter how monumental, are temporary.

But nature is eternal. 

Its rivers carve canyons, its winds weather mountains and its roots break through stone, all without urgency. 

While we obsess over our legacy, nature simply is. 

It doesn’t need us, but we’ll always need it.

Moments later, we stepped inside the car, and made our way to the next stop of our journey: Marawi Grand Mosque

The Marawi Grand Mosque

The Marawi Grand Mosque was a thing of beauty.

I’ve seen the Grand Mosque of Cotabato and The Pink Mosque.

And this mosque was just as stunning as those icons.

But there’s more to this mosque than meets the eye.

Restored beautifully, this mosque is a symbol of unity, resilience, and the unwavering spirit of the Maranaos. 

And it’s also a beacon of hope, amid the Marawi aftermath.

From the mosque, we took a short drive to one of the most stunning sights I’ve ever seen.

Lake Lanao: An iconic natural wonder that deserves more love

Who says Lanao del Sur doesn’t have an iconic attraction?

As I admired the vast and sparkling Lake Lanao, I wondered why this natural wonder didn’t get a lot of attention.

I mean.

It’s stunning and postcard-worthy, with its sparkling waters and towering emerald mountains in the backdrop.

And did I mention that it’s incredibly massive?

It’s even the largest lake in Mindanao and the country’s deepest and second-largest lake in the Philippines.

Even better,  it’s one of the world’s 15 ancient lakes.

Yes, it may be more impressive than Lake Sebu and Lake Holon.

Even so, this 84,000-acre doesn’t get mentioned in magazines and textbooks.

Sometimes, I feel like everything in this world is biased.

While soaking up its beauty, I realized that Lake Lanao is also a reflection of the region itself.

It’s overlooked yet magnificent.

Resilient yet serene. 

Plus, it challenges stereotypes and encourages people to rethink their perceptions

It epitomizes everything I’d come to appreciate about Lanao del Sur.

Exploring More Ruins from the Marawi Attack

We were supposed to visit Marawi City Rizal Park, after our encounter with Lake Lanao.

But for some reason, the road leading to the park was closed.

So, we went on with our trip and explored places in Ground Zero.

We saw the ruins of a towering hospital that was slowly decaying and covered by nature.

And these ruins reminded me of the cause of the war.

Here’s the thing.

Religion isn’t the real cause of this bloody war.

Throughout the years, there have been countless wars caused by religious differences.

And I thought these differences were the real cause of these wars.

I even once said that religion is causing an unnecessary division between us.

But because of this trip, I realized the real cause of these wars: greed.

It’s our desire for more that caused all these bloody battles.

It’s our desire for more wealth, power, and control that has driven civilizations to rise and crumble.

Humans are, by nature, creatures of survival.

But these days, survival is no longer about food and shelter.

Survival has evolved into an unquenchable thirst for dominance.

Sadly, greed has become part of our DNA.

And we’ve seen fingerprints of human greed throughout history.

These so-called religious wars are just the tip of the iceberg. 

We’ve seen poisoned rivers, forests turned to ash, and mountains destroyed in pursuit of precious minerals.

There are even entire ecosystems sacrificed for the illusion of progress. 

And greed isn’t just about hoarding gold or building empires. 

Sometimes, it’s about wanting more of what you already have.

Today, we always dreamed of having a better job, a bigger house, and a fancier car. 

But in chasing these desires, we risk losing sight of what’s really valuable. 

Relationships slowly erode, happiness becomes elusive, and contentment feels like a pipedream.

And the thing about greed is that it’s sneaky. 

It disguises itself as ambition, telling you it’s okay to push a bit harder and to take what you think you deserve. 

But when unchecked, it turns into a category-5 typhoon, destroying everything in its path. 

The saddest part is, you don’t even realize the damage until it’s too late.

And just like the ruins of Marawi, unchecked greed can leave us hollow, with cracks too deep to repair. 

If we’re not careful, we become something like those battered walls. 

Yes, these walls are still standing, but they are just a reminder of what was lost.

Marawi City Rizal Park

After snapping photos of the ruins, we went inside the car, and planned to take the next stop for our trip: Iligan.

Still, I felt like something was missing from our visit to Marawi.

What was it?

Maybe the answer could be found at Marawi City Rizal Park.

Since the road to the park was closed, we decided to park at a nearby spot and walk our way to the park.

Along the way, I saw gorgeous architecture and signs of progress and growth.

Soon after, we arrived at the park, which unfortunately was closed to the public.

I thought that was it.

So, I decided to move on to the next phase of our trip and travel from Marawi to Iligan.

But something happened as we made our way back to the parking area.

We saw an inviting stairway that screamed “explore.”

Curious, we followed the stairway and saw a different side of Marawi.

It was a side that embodied the resilience of the city.

And it was a sign of a better future for Marawi and Maranaos.

Even though it was simple, I knew Marawi’s tourism would soon reach new heights.

At that moment, I knew the city would eventually reclaim its throne as the Summer Capital of the South.

Marawi has everything you need for an unforgettable trip.

It’s as cold and breezy as Tagaytay, it has an iconic natural wonder, and it has an interesting culture.

As I snapped photos of this corner of the city, I noticed a sight that perfectly embodies the new and old Marawi.

Soon after, a bunch of Muslim tourists arrived to take pictures of the park.

Just by looking at them, I knew they wanted to ask us to take a picture of them as a group.

But they were hesitant to ask us.

Maybe they thought our religious differences would affect our response.

So, I volunteered to take a picture of their group.

I know it’s a small gesture.

But I hope that one day these small gestures will help create a world that isn’t divided by religious differences.

And I hope that one day my adventures will make a few people more spiritual than religious.

As I’ve said before, there’s a big difference between spirituality and religion.

As someone who’s on the more spiritual side, I don’t exactly subscribe to one religion.

From there, we decided to end our visit in Marawi.

We, then, traveled to Iligan and explored its enchanting waterfalls.

As we left Marawi, I carried with me more than just memories and pictures of its ruins and beauty. 

Did I find what I was looking for?

Absolutely, and more. 

I found resilience in its people, hope in its rebuilding, and stories that reshaped my perspective.

Marawi shouldn’t be defined by its scars and past. 

It should be defined by its ability to rise. 

This city taught me that beauty exists in the most unexpected places, and sometimes, it takes stepping into the unknown to truly see it.

And Marawi taught me that even in the shadows of destruction, beauty can bloom.

What is Marawi known for?

The Islamic City of Marawi is known for its cultural and Islamic heritage, university, local art, and Maranao Art.

What language is spoken in Marawi?

The primary language spoken in Marawi is Maranao, the native language of the Maranao people. As the national language of the Philippines, Tagalog is also commonly understood and spoken, especially in schools, government offices, and among visitors or non-Maranao residents. English is also widely used in the city.

How to get there?

There are many ways to get to Marawi from Cagayan de Oro. The easiest and most convenient way is to get a guide. I recommend Pul Jeh if you prefer to take this route.